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Old 07-06-2018, 04:01 AM   #1
mallardtone-man
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AB Biller 48 special modifications?

Hey guys, I have read over every thread I can find on here about this topic but still find myself with a number of questions so please bear with me on this endless post and do your best to answer any and all questions you can. Thanks so much!

I have owned this gun for a number of years and mostly shoot it in fresh water and limited viz but do take it down to fla and want to set it up a little differently as I am not happy with the performance I am getting out of the stock setup. I am basically trying to get maximum range and power out of it. I shoot the biggest fish I have opportunities at but havent shot anything over 30lb yet. I am ordering the low profile slide ring SLR-C I have seen suggested as a well as switching the line to 300lb mono. I am ordering this Dyneema shock cord with a basic loop at each end unless you think there is benefit to the twist off version https://www.amazon.com/Cressi-SPEARF...REHADZN24D57FA. How do you suggest I attach the mono? I was thinking a basic uni knot would do a good job and not create a lot of drag but I could also crimp it or use a snap swivel to attach. I am planning on switching to dyneema wishbones as I have heard they are better than cable or metal and was going to order this kit to make 3 bands https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...PV3ODEZ3&psc=1. The other possibility I was considering was ordering a speed loader kit like this one, https://www.divers-supply.com/ocean-...-load-kit.html but I am not 100% sure how this works and if there is a strong benefit to it, I have seen it recommended by several people though. I cannot afford to get a floridian shaft at the moment but would like to in the future, I am assuming it will work fine with a 48 special, do you know if that is right? For the time being I could potentially switch my double flopper rock point to something like this https://www.divers-supply.com/ab-bil...ed-swivel.html if there would be any benefit to doing that. I am switching my bands to 5/8" and have some questions about how to set them up and what lengths would be best, I see some people suggest a 22 and a 26, and that some guys are recommending 2 20". seatux mentioned there is a benefit to the different size bands, can you clarify what that might be, as well as why people choose to load to the first and second notch as opposed the the 2nd and third? Also, has anyone tried shooting shorter bands for more power? I might be more inclined to try a 20 and 24", I already have band material and am going to tie my own. My only question when I am tying my own bands is measuring, am I measuring the total length of the band material or the length of the band from the constrictor knots? In the future I am interested in modifying the length of the gun itself. I have found myself wanting a longer gun at times but am not sure if I would be wiser to invest in a whole new setup or just try and purchase a new stock and shaft for the one I have. I have heard that Ray Odor makes custom stocks but that he is 91 years old now and may no longer be in business, do you know if there are any other options for this? Also, my mahogany stock is starting to look a little rough and I would like to bring it back to life, can anyone let me know what the best way to do this might be? Thanks so much for any help you can give me on this and sorry for the endless questions, I just want to be sure I am setting things up the best I can be!
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Old 07-06-2018, 08:58 AM   #2
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Re: AB Biller 48 special modifications?

I would not mess with it much. Dynema wishbones will not work without modification of every shaft a closed loop Bungie is a terrible idea.

Just keep the gun and use it where it works well and buy a bigger more powerful gun for clear water. Or sell the gun for $100. It is a good gun but it is limited in power.
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Old 07-08-2018, 04:01 AM   #3
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Re: AB Biller 48 special modifications?

A few weeks ago I went on a spearfishing trip where a friend of mine invited me. I got him started spearfishing almost 20 years ago and really never caught up with him since. He was still using the same ABBILLER gear I got him hooked on 20 years ago. Hey ... if it works don't fix it! For the type of spearfishing he was doing this worked really well and he was happy with it. I decided to give him all my old ABBILLER guns as I was not using them ... it turns out I had 12 of them !!! I kept one LTD one for me and gave him the entire lot of others. That one LTD gun I have has caught more fish than all my other guns combined. 20 years ago there were a lot more fish around and I used to spearfish about 5 x a week! He also gave me a couple of his guns that were not working to fix and I decided to take them apart and fix them ... also decided to see if I can optimize the gun for higher performance.

On opening the guns, I was pretty shocked to see that the sears are something like only 2mm or 2.5mm wide and they are held in a nylon cassette. So going for more power than the default 2 x 16mm bands was certainly not something I would recommend. I tried 2 x 14.5mm bands, but the low handle was not helping and I couldn't improve on the default setup much. Also if you added too much power, the muzzle flip was not the only problem ... the slide ring would get stuck on the shaft . In the end I decided that ABBILLER had that thing optimized perfectly as it was and just use the default setup. I did put the gun in a pool test and it was quite interesting how much spearguns have changed. My favorite 60 inch LTD gun could not even get close to the performance of a well setup 80cm gun with 2 x 14mm small ID bands. I would say it had about 2 meters less range than the 80cm gun ... and certainly not the same accuracy. It also had a very high shaft drop.

I think that type of gun has been improved dramatically. Doesn't mean it won't work or won't catch fish ... just that today things have moved on and there are much better choices. For scuba divers this would still be a good choice as you can set it up with a single wrap and a spring loaded flopper tip and can shoot and put fish on a stringer really quickly. But if you are freediving and need range and accuracy ... again there are much better options.
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Old 07-09-2018, 08:50 AM   #4
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Re: AB Biller 48 special modifications?

Short answer: Hang it on the wall and buy a modern, well proved gun. Rear handle, mid handle, US style, Euro style, pick your poison. And be done.

Long answer: Your gun is outdated. It will still catch fish but take Spearq8 advice. You will shot further, with more accuracy and less frustration with a new gun. And you don't need to break the bank either. Unless you are shooting bluewater... you will be pleased with a cheap aluminum barrel pipe gun, such as the ones made by MAKO (if you want to keep it US made). Euro style.. .well.. there are plenty.
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Old 07-10-2018, 12:16 PM   #5
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Re: AB Biller 48 special modifications?

It seems if you ask these questions here:The laws of physics being dependent on brand or type of gun is the the answer and that if you have overfished your area to the point fish are ultra skittish you may need a tuna cannon to shoot 5 pound trash fish like they do in the Med.And if you can't afford the latest,bestest gear you should just wait til you can or just take up golf or something.I guess no one bothered to read the whole post ie: not being able to afford a new shaft and wanting to make the best of what you have.

My suggestions
1.Power up- either 1 big (20mm) band or 2 medium (16mm)
2.Get rid of all the tackle you can,no speed loader
3.Use thinner braid for less drag from the line
4.Measure your draw,should be near 40inches or 100mmish to figure out band length


If you truly want to see what your gun is capable of, I'd suggest hitting up youtube to see how it's done.These channels illustrate how well that type of gun can be used if set up properly, inexpensively and used by a competent diver.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHt...c00D38HrJ9PEgg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHd...MwofoozeBEXCmA
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIi...pAQeT6gUWXdHxw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCL2...w_XjxPynjPnQrQ
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Old 07-11-2018, 09:41 AM   #6
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Re: AB Biller 48 special modifications?

For low vis conditions I think a 48 Biller is a good gun. I had one for years and felt really confident on my shots. In fact, if it came down to my old Biller 48 vs. my 67" Riffe Bluewater in bluewater conditions I would go with my Biller (I shot a Bluewater for years and hated it). Of course I use an Alexander Bluewater now and love it but that's another story.

Regarding the metal wish bones, I have them on my bluewater gun because of the way you can sight down the shaft. Its way better than looking at a bunch of knots.

I would run 2 or 3 tight 9/16 bands. Don't try to over power it. Work on being relaxed and getting close.

Good luck

Rob
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:45 AM   #7
Gary H
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Re: AB Biller 48 special modifications?

Don't know if you are still following this thread, but 100Days-a-year has given your best response so far. There are probably more pounds of fish landed every day with Biller, Sea Hornet, and older Spearfishing Specialties style guns than all others combined. With that said, I will give you my 2 cents worth on your questions:

"I am basically trying to get maximum range and power out of it."
Max range is going to depend on how long of a cord you put on it or absolute max range is going to be no cord, aka free-shafting.

"I am ordering the low profile slide ring SLR-C I have seen suggested as a well as switching the line to 300lb mono."
I have no personal experience with the SLR-C, but it appears to be a good design.

"I am ordering this Dyneema shock cord with a basic loop at each end unless you think there is benefit to the twist off version"
The twist off version is very handy if you shoot all the way thru a fish. It is easier to remove the cord from the twist off and pull the cord thru the fish and reattach the cord to the twist off (as opposed to backing the whole shaft out of the fish). Be sure fish is secured to your stringer, in the boat, on the shore, etc. before removing shaft

"How do you suggest I attach the mono? I was thinking a basic uni knot would do a good job and not create a lot of drag but I could also crimp it or use a snap swivel to attach."
Crimp and forget the snap swivel, you have the twist off thing for that.

"I am planning on switching to dyneema wishbones as I have heard they are better than cable or metal and was going to order this kit to make 3 bands "
Bad idea as previously discussed.

"The other possibility I was considering was ordering a speed loader kit like this one, but I am not 100% sure how this works and if there is a strong benefit to it, I have seen it recommended by several people though."
The speed loader works well - I used one for years, but I personally ended up using the shock cord with the twist off option instead - they kind of serve the same purpose.

"I cannot afford to get a floridian shaft at the moment but would like to in the future, I am assuming it will work fine with a 48 special, do you know if that is right? For the time being I could potentially switch my double flopper rock point to something like this if there would be any benefit to doing that."
If you are using the original 6" long tip that came with the gun this is probably an improvement. The long ones tend to have wobble that in turn affects your shot.

"I am switching my bands to 5/8" and have some questions about how to set them up and what lengths would be best, I see some people suggest a 22 and a 26, and that some guys are recommending 2 20". seatux mentioned there is a benefit to the different size bands, can you clarify what that might be, as well as why people choose to load to the first and second notch as opposed the the 2nd and third? Also, has anyone tried shooting shorter bands for more power? I might be more inclined to try a 20 and 24", I already have band material and am going to tie my own. My only question when I am tying my own bands is measuring, am I measuring the total length of the band material or the length of the band from the constrictor knots?"
The reason people use different length bands is to offer as much on the fly power flexibility. One 22" is going to have more power than one 26", but you might not want to shoot the power of a 22" into a hole. On the other hand, you can load both, and that will provide more power than either individually.

"Also, my mahogany stock is starting to look a little rough and I would like to bring it back to life, can anyone let me know what the best way to do this might be?"
Disassemble down to bare wood parts. Either sand or strip the original finish off. You could either oil with something like Watco teak oil, or paint it with a Spar Urethane, or paint with an epoxy like West Marine or https://neptonics.com/product/epoxy-kit/. Oiling is the most economical and easiest … Edit: put a little urethane or clear finger nail polish in each screw hole when reassembling - this will reduce water intrusion that can lead to wood rot.
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Last edited by Gary H; 07-11-2018 at 11:55 AM.
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