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Old 06-10-2015, 06:22 AM   #16
spearo #uno
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

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Originally Posted by newbiee1987 View Post
I'm about to pull the trigger in a 1980 22' Bertram cuddy cabin with a chevy 350 engine and volvo penta 270 outdrive. The guy says it runs good, and he did a whole engine restoration, so far all it needs it an engine and outdrive oil change to start fresh. This would be my first boat, and was wondering how difficult is gonna be for me to work in the engine, I'm pretty good at car and trucks mechanical work, but I've never work in a marine inboard engine. What should I look for, when checking the boat before buying it, other than soft spots and moisture around the screws and corners?
Thanks in advance.
Maybe some pictures of the interior, exterior etc. may help.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:59 AM   #17
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

Check for rot in the transom and stringers, some people tap with a hammer looking for a solid sound ok, hollow sound not good. Probe with ice pick around penetrations in the transom and stringers. Engine restored should have been with a marine engine, not automotive. Bertram hulls are some of the heaviest built, a good thing for durability.
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:03 AM   #18
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

Here's the link. ....



http://ventura.craigslist.org/boa/5028101495.html
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:29 AM   #19
searaydiver
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

Hey newbie, I'll throw in a past experience that I had with my SXL Sea Ray. Both risers, on top of the exhaust manifolds became plugged with rust. I constantly had to remove them and hammer the openings to clean them. Replaced several times, always the same issue. Water hoses have to be routed correctly or they will cause a heat up situation. Had to replace the gimble bearing only once, big job though. That was years ago on an older boat. I have an Optimal 200 DFI hanging on my new Ray and won't go back. The weight to horsepower ratio is in favor of the outboard.
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:33 AM   #20
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

Hey newbie, I'll throw in a past experience that I had with my SXL Sea Ray. Both risers, on top of the exhaust manifolds became plugged with rust. I constantly had to remove them and hammer the openings to clean them. Replaced several times, always the same issue. Water hoses have to be routed correctly or they will cause a heat up situation. Had to replace the gimble bearing only once, big job though. That was years ago on an older boat. I have an Optimax 200 DFI hanging on my new Ray and won't go back. The weight to horsepower ratio is in favor of the outboard.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:24 AM   #21
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

I have a Triumph 1700 skiff 90 honda fourstroke and a 95 keywest WA with 2013 etec. Both boats are great but the skiff has a much higher fun to money ratio. I do 20 dollars in gas on the skiff on a trip and 60 dollars pluse 8 in oil on the keywest. I have had the key west for a month and it is my first big boat. You get a nice ride and run alot further but pay for it. I have yet to put the same amount of fish on the keywest.
I would look at a 18 foot CC with a trailer that has no brakes, most states thats 3000 pounds or less. Go fourstroke. The keywest came with etec and was priced good, however i have spent $50 in oil in a month. There are positive and negitive in boats. That skiff cost me about $700 a year to maintain,insure, and get boat US. I let you know how the keywest does.
Skiff was around 5mpg, keywest 2-3mpg.
For your first boat go small and simple. Get a CC with some good deadrise
(12-18degree) and a boat light enough that you don't need brakes.
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:24 PM   #22
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

The most important things you can do not necessarily in order of importance

1. Get all polymer construction; no wood. Don't let guys fool you into thinking you are going to find rotten wood on a boat by tapping or through any other means, and that you'll identify it and fix it. If it is a used boat and it has wood in it, it is going to be rotten. No matter how solid it feels, assume that any wood is rotted. No matter how many times you jump on the deck you aren't going to find the rotted wood. You can probe and dig and it won't make a damn bit of difference, you'll never find it when you are buying the boat but you'll definately find it after you buy. My Cape Horn 19 is my first no-wood boat. I specifically decided on no-wood and got a lot of grief over it from old-timers who said I didn't know what I was talking about. If a boat is used, and it has wood construction, then it should be free, or perhaps you should charge the previous owner to haul it away. I'd never go back.

2. Replace all through hull fittings below the waterline with metal (bronze, stainless) or your boat will sink or otherwise fill with water if it is unsinkable. This is a guarantee. Plastic corrodes and fatigues and it absolutely will reach a point at which it is like an eggshell and then of course it will crack, the water will pour in, etc. If you see a boat that is sinking and it didn't take a waver over the transom, the odds are it was a thru-hull fitting. Whenever possible use a sea-cock on thru-hull fittings that are below the waterline. Bed most of this stuff in with 4200 because 5200 really is impossible to remove if you need to.

3. Be prepared for hell with a trailer. Ideally all stainless and aluminum hardware and every other piece of advice anyone gives you for preservation and making sure things don't go badly on the road should be followed. I like to use a trailer with bunks tall enough so that even if all four tires go flat that the outboard doesn't hit the ground. Yes you have to back in a little further at the ramp with this strategy.

4. Towing insurance for the boat while trailering and while on the water. Because eventually you will use it and a single tow can easily cost what ten years of towing dues cost.

5. Tear any fancy stuff out. If it has a nice radio for listening to music, tear it out and every scrap of wiring that goes along with it. Keep your electrical system simple and understandable and neat. Get a nice set of wire strippers and crimpers. Use dielctric grease on every single electrical connnection you make. If it is a heat shrink connection first dip the end of the wire in the dielectric, then crimp (again, with a GOOD crimper), then heat shrink. Every fuse, terminal, etc. should be coated with dielectric grease. Squirt some dielectric grease into the electrical connections for your VHF radio, GPS, etc.

6. Rethink the cuddy cabin. They are good for not taking a wave over the bow and maybe you have other reasons. it is just more space for a lack of maintenance to cause a problem though, or to require more maintenance. Since you are in Cali it might not be so bad. Here in Florida a cuddy is a fungus farm. Consider the very simple open-fisherman floor plan.

7. Do not get a project boat or a boat that needs very much work at all no matter how handy you are. Any work that you do should be doable in a very short period of time with a hard deadline to get it back in the water. A boat with wood in it is a killer here. What happens is you see all this potential if you just remove a little bit more rotted wood, days turn into weeks, then into months and meanwhile your fuel system is converting its polymers into some glop you don't want to deal with.

8. Do check engine cylinder compression. Be prepared with a good service manual for the engine and do all the items corresponding to the maximum service interval yourself. There are some good vendors of parts for service that you can buy from online who will give you pointers. Use anti sieze on every threaded connection unless its specifically prohibited. I mean every single damn one. If in doubt, give it a bath in antis-ieze.

9. Don't drill a single hole, or install a bracket, cup holder, speargun holder, rod racks, or any other do-dad without giving it a lot of thought. Don't drill a hole through the hull below the waterline without thinking about it for a few weeks.
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Last edited by anthropisces; 07-28-2015 at 07:18 PM.
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:24 PM   #23
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

Wow what a nice list anthro


I agree with everything but rule 8...I used antiseize on marine applications a long time ago and started breaking bolts left and right. Putting more metals in the mix causes corrosion. When introduced with salt water, anti seize starts to break down and crumbles...

I use red n tacky on any bolt that says use anti seize... especially my spark plugs..a little dab will do ya.

i do this on some of ones that say loctite as well. Like bolts that live or stay underwater like on pwc pump or intake grates....the result was ZERO sheared off bolts...

Grease hose clamps and always wipe down surfaces, even if they look clean. I like 1 cup ammonia, cup white distilled vinegar and cup baking soda with 1 gallon of warm water. OR 3 fingers of purple power and the rest water in a spray bottle...

Ive got a check list a mile long on my customers boats/skis, but anthro pretty much hit the nail on the head...

Heat shrink electrical connections and liquid electrical tape on battery connections so they dont short if submerged.
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:38 PM   #24
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

Well I did pull the trigger, and went with something a bit bigger. Its a 23' crestliner c-eagle cuddy cabin walkaround sportfisher.... Damn it... Thats a freaking long name hahahahah... So far I love it..


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Old 07-31-2015, 06:54 AM   #25
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

Nice boat, what type of power?
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:14 AM   #26
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

130 hp Johnson outboard.
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:25 PM   #27
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

Quote:
Originally Posted by newbiee1987 View Post
Its a 23' crestliner c-eagle cuddy cabin walkaround sportfisher.... Attachment 220069
Awesome, congratulations!


Quote:
Originally Posted by kwtony View Post
I use red n tacky on any bolt that says use anti seize... especially my spark plugs..a little dab will do ya.
Glad for that piece of intelligence as well as the other things you mentioned. I never had a problem with anti-sieze but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:40 PM   #28
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Re: Boat maintenance costs

The wood construction comment is ridiculous. My 01' Contender is pushing 15 years and I just drilled a new sidescan transducer in to the 2.5" thick transom of which 1.5" is wood which was perfect and hard as hell with zero moisture.

Whitewater boats are still made with wood to this day and are one of the nicest center consoles on the market and I know of more than 5 of them in Key West alone that are in perfect condition that were built in the 90's.

I understand where you are coming from with cheaper boats but that is an absurd blanket statement.
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