Project Boat Discussion: Tips, Ideas, Mistakes...

[CuzzA]

Originally Posted by Marcus

I think you need a larger live well to start with. Anybody serious about fishing will thumb their nose at that. You need to think about the ROI on your project. A future buyer of your boat may be a fisherman. You also may endeavor more in the future. That size wouldn't keep one net full of shiners alive. More crowded conditions requires exponentially increasing amounts of fresh water flow.
I would think about increasing the depth to fit most of your dive gear sans tanks, guns. You can then easily rinse gear with fresh water. You would also then have a nice sized live well to put several full nets of bait into for chumming/fishing at the rear of the boat, which is ideal.
I would insulate it. Why not? It's easy and makes it much more practical/useful. You could use the open cell spray foam being it would be so far above the water line, barring a leak from the well itself.

This is a dive boat though. There will be no hiding that fact and while I agree a larger livewell would be nice, there are a number of things at play here. I only have so much room on the stern between the two knees. I'm going with a prefabricated drop in, not something custom built from a mold so options are limited. Water is heavy.

My decision to even add a livewell is based on the fact that I have two young boys who won't be diving for a number of years, but will be fishing with me. If it weren't for that I'm not sure I would even go to the trouble. I don't remember the last time I picked up a rod and reel since I started spearfishing.

This drop in livewell will fit perfectly in the area I have, but it seemed unusual there were no mounts. I'd hate to glass it in place because it's plastic and we all know what happens to plastic over the years. Perhaps it's a lot stronger and thicker plastic.

[Wood Guy]

If you build a support frame the livewell will be supported from underneath and can be replaced easily enough down the road if necessary (Assuming you can buy a replacement with the same dimensions). Glassing in the top is just cosmetic and wouldn't be that difficult to do or to remove. If it's insulated, it's a perfect size for a drink cooler if no one is fishing.

Big livewells are nice, but you have to take what the boat gives you. What volume is the one you are considering? It looks like 25-30 gal which, although not huge, will do nicely for a day trip with 3 or 4 anglers. We have two 35 gal livewells in our dive boat, and we've never used the second one- except for a trash container for empty bottles, etc.

And as you mentioned, there's the weight. Most boats don't need another 250-300 Lb. at the stern when they are getting up on plane.

[CuzzA]

Originally Posted by Wood Guy

If you build a support frame the livewell will be supported from underneath and can be replaced easily enough down the road if necessary (Assuming you can buy a replacement with the same dimensions). Glassing in the top is just cosmetic and wouldn't be that difficult to do or to remove. If it's insulated, it's a perfect size for a drink cooler if no one is fishing.

Big livewells are nice, but you have to take what the boat gives you. What volume is the one you are considering? It looks like 25-30 gal which, although not huge, will do nicely for a day trip with 3 or 4 anglers. We have two 35 gal livewells in our dive boat, and we've never used the second one- except for a trash container for empty bottles, etc.

And as you mentioned, there's the weight. Most boats don't need another 250-300 Lb. at the stern when they are getting up on plane.

That's what I'm thinking. This particular drop in is 30 gallons.

[jstbecauz]

Insulate it...it's always nice to have a bar in your transom.

[vertical limit]

I have used those boys up in Perry fl to build tanks also they do a good job. The go to stuff on tanks has been getting it powder coated to reduce oxidising . Then on the hold down tabs we us teflon washers to reduce the two different metal oxidizing on the screw down area.

[Wood Guy]

You also need to isolate all non aluminum fittings. I used nylon bushings between the aluminum tank and brass fittings. Be careful what fasteners you use for gauge brackets, etc. I used aluminum fasteners since my gauge bracket is also aluminum, but if the brackets are ss, they will need to be electrically isolated with gaskets, and some other material used for the bolts. If you aren't really iron-assed about this, you will be replacing the top of your tank in about 5 years- if it makes it that long.

[CuzzA]

So, me and my boy took a day trip down to Cape Coral today and picked up this new Dusky Drive twin engine fiberglass bracket. I'm looking forward to getting the stern put together in the coming weeks.

[CuzzA]

Fuel tank is done. Scott at Abyss Marine did a great job. We ended up somewhere between 150 and 160 gallons. 3/16 aluminum. I went ahead and had him cold tar epoxy it.



As many of you know, I have to have a plan for everything, so here's a rough layout of the stern... which will surely change I'm sure.

[grey2112]

Nice, James - can't wait to dive off it - by then the Pelican may be sold and I'll be begging for rides on other people's boats - LOL

[CuzzA]

No doubt, Eric.

Today I decided to insulate the livewell liner to double as a cooler. I dry fitted the liner with foam board. Tomorrow I'll roll on some contact cement to install it. Then spray foam all of the cracks. Clean up the foam and glass the whole works.

[CuzzA]

I thought I'd give an update here before the long weekend. I decided against laminating the livewell. Overkill and adds more weight. I did however, have a roll of duct foil that's been hanging around for a decade or so and decided to at least tape the shit out of the insulation. We will glass the bottom three inches to give us a spot to secure it in the boat.

Finally I got a break from work and got the tank put in the boat today. I did the Pascoe method with 1/2" PVC strips bedded in 5200 on the bottom of the tank yesterday. Today I put a small bead of 5200 on the underside of the strips just to get a little drip under the tank. Then I used a dense spray foam from Loctite and foamed the corners and each side. Not a lot, just enough to prevent the tank from somehow shifting and vibrating and rubbing a hole in the tank. I put in the extra money and effort, I expect this tank to last at least 20 years.

So next week I got Chuck raising the stringers to increase the deck height to ensure we have a self bailing boat via side scuppers. We'll get the structure of the stern finished, lay the deck over the tank and then it's time to bolt on the bracket.

So, again all wrapped up.


Here you see I have stainless steel drain covers added. They are raised up. I put a nut underneath to prevent bait getting stuck and also to facilitate more flow. I also added a couple blue LEDs. At $3 a piece, why not.


I found these really cool 19mm MPT to 19mm hose barb ball valves off Amazon. They had it listed as a Prime item delivered in two days. Then I get a call from this Chinese chick in China freaking out about how she can't deliver in two days. I couldn't understand what the hell she was saying. I just told her to ship. It arrived seven days later.


Some tank install pics.

[Marcus]

That's a decent sized bait well. Will work out good. Looks big enough to hold quite a bit of dive gear too.
Always use brass fittings for ports below the water line. That bilge outlet looks high in the diagram. Denigrates performance.

[HeadHunter]

Looks great James.

[grey2112]

I'm going to be afraid to sneeze on your boat, James, when it is done - you'd probably throw me overboard!

[CuzzA]

Originally Posted by Marcus

That's a decent sized bait well. Will work out good. Looks big enough to hold quite a bit of dive gear too.
Always use brass fittings for ports below the water line. That bilge outlet looks high in the diagram. Denigrates performance.

Yes, I think it will work pretty good. I should be able to keep some bigger baits alive if trolling pelagics on the other coast. Definitely big enough to hold some gear. Wetsuits, etc. We'll see how well it hold up. I just couldn't justify a custom thousand dollar livewell made from a plug. For $140.00, which will double as storage and triple as a cooler. Should work well.

I think you meant to say bronze regarding thru hulls. Definitely don't want brass thru hulls below the water line. Brass is 40% zinc.

The bilge discharge thru hulls are high in the illustration. The shape of the hull in the illustration is not accurate. In fact, I already know the plumbing is going to change when I actually start installing stuff.