Project Boat Discussion: Tips, Ideas, Mistakes...

[CuzzA]

Originally Posted by Marcus

I think you need a larger live well to start with. Anybody serious about fishing will thumb their nose at that. You need to think about the ROI on your project. A future buyer of your boat may be a fisherman. You also may endeavor more in the future. That size wouldn't keep one net full of shiners alive. More crowded conditions requires exponentially increasing amounts of fresh water flow.
I would think about increasing the depth to fit most of your dive gear sans tanks, guns. You can then easily rinse gear with fresh water. You would also then have a nice sized live well to put several full nets of bait into for chumming/fishing at the rear of the boat, which is ideal.
I would insulate it. Why not? It's easy and makes it much more practical/useful. You could use the open cell spray foam being it would be so far above the water line, barring a leak from the well itself.

This is a dive boat though. There will be no hiding that fact and while I agree a larger livewell would be nice, there are a number of things at play here. I only have so much room on the stern between the two knees. I'm going with a prefabricated drop in, not something custom built from a mold so options are limited. Water is heavy.

My decision to even add a livewell is based on the fact that I have two young boys who won't be diving for a number of years, but will be fishing with me. If it weren't for that I'm not sure I would even go to the trouble. I don't remember the last time I picked up a rod and reel since I started spearfishing.

This drop in livewell will fit perfectly in the area I have, but it seemed unusual there were no mounts. I'd hate to glass it in place because it's plastic and we all know what happens to plastic over the years. Perhaps it's a lot stronger and thicker plastic.

[Wood Guy]

If you build a support frame the livewell will be supported from underneath and can be replaced easily enough down the road if necessary (Assuming you can buy a replacement with the same dimensions). Glassing in the top is just cosmetic and wouldn't be that difficult to do or to remove. If it's insulated, it's a perfect size for a drink cooler if no one is fishing.

Big livewells are nice, but you have to take what the boat gives you. What volume is the one you are considering? It looks like 25-30 gal which, although not huge, will do nicely for a day trip with 3 or 4 anglers. We have two 35 gal livewells in our dive boat, and we've never used the second one- except for a trash container for empty bottles, etc.

And as you mentioned, there's the weight. Most boats don't need another 250-300 Lb. at the stern when they are getting up on plane.

[CuzzA]

Originally Posted by Wood Guy

If you build a support frame the livewell will be supported from underneath and can be replaced easily enough down the road if necessary (Assuming you can buy a replacement with the same dimensions). Glassing in the top is just cosmetic and wouldn't be that difficult to do or to remove. If it's insulated, it's a perfect size for a drink cooler if no one is fishing.

Big livewells are nice, but you have to take what the boat gives you. What volume is the one you are considering? It looks like 25-30 gal which, although not huge, will do nicely for a day trip with 3 or 4 anglers. We have two 35 gal livewells in our dive boat, and we've never used the second one- except for a trash container for empty bottles, etc.

And as you mentioned, there's the weight. Most boats don't need another 250-300 Lb. at the stern when they are getting up on plane.

That's what I'm thinking. This particular drop in is 30 gallons.

[jstbecauz]

Insulate it...it's always nice to have a bar in your transom.

[vertical limit]

I have used those boys up in Perry fl to build tanks also they do a good job. The go to stuff on tanks has been getting it powder coated to reduce oxidising . Then on the hold down tabs we us teflon washers to reduce the two different metal oxidizing on the screw down area.

[Wood Guy]

You also need to isolate all non aluminum fittings. I used nylon bushings between the aluminum tank and brass fittings. Be careful what fasteners you use for gauge brackets, etc. I used aluminum fasteners since my gauge bracket is also aluminum, but if the brackets are ss, they will need to be electrically isolated with gaskets, and some other material used for the bolts. If you aren't really iron-assed about this, you will be replacing the top of your tank in about 5 years- if it makes it that long.

[CuzzA]

So, me and my boy took a day trip down to Cape Coral today and picked up this new Dusky Drive twin engine fiberglass bracket. I'm looking forward to getting the stern put together in the coming weeks.