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Old 03-12-2007, 10:05 AM   #61
Griswold
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

I've given it some thought and don't like that the float would get stuck on the back side of the rope keeper, putting a bunch of pressure and possible cutting edge against the bungie there. I think I've come up with another option that will be clean, and very functional. Will post pics when installed.
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Old 03-12-2007, 07:03 PM   #62
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

thanks to everyone contributing to this thread..............

I have ideas in my head now about a few options as well............

Grizwald,

your sharp-looking "U" strap does look a bit sharp. I'd either try some
of the marine sailing hardware that is more rounded in it's shape, or like
Mile's corkscrew attachment method.......

(I'm now thinking about making some of those up at home)

--cool thread.........

--Sherpa
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Old 03-13-2007, 12:04 AM   #63
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

they have hard plastic one that are reinforced with steel if you are going to stay with the permanent one like you have. you could also go with a piece of line that that egg float cant fit through.
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Old 03-13-2007, 06:59 AM   #64
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

Yea, I was thinking about a loop that goes all the way through the board, and is pretty tight to the top of the board preventing any slack from bouncing the bungie out of the cam cleat. I think that if I can make it tight to the top of board, it should do the trick even better that the chain link, and I like that there won't be a piece of metal sticking up there to catch on things. A piece of velcro strap might do the trick. It doesn't have to be strong, in fact I like the idea of the velcro giving and the float stopping at the hole in the board.

Keep the ideas coming though, because I certainly don't have all the answers.
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Old 03-18-2007, 12:40 PM   #65
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

Here's the finished product (I think). I went with a thick velcro strap for a keeper to prevent the bungie from jumping out of the cam cleat. I like it because (1) It will do the job. (2) It simple, and clean. (3) If the bungie gets out of the cleat for some reason, the float will get pulled through the bungie and stop at the hole in the board.

I thought that the flag was a good addition.

This board is coated with bright orange rino liner. This was my first time dealing with that stuff - major PITA factor. Terrible fumes, seriously messy, and you have to use the entire can within 3 hours of opening it.
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Old 03-19-2007, 01:00 PM   #66
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

Is the little float solid plastic or is it hollow?

That thing looks pretty sweet.
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Old 03-19-2007, 01:21 PM   #67
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

Good work!!
Let us know how it works out!!
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Old 03-19-2007, 04:15 PM   #68
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

LA Diver, the little float is hard plastic and hollow with a 3/8" hole through the center. I don't know how much pressure it would take to crack it, but I can stand on it with no issues (210ish). I figure that the worst case is that it cracks and fills with water. I don't think there is any way that it would go through the hole in the board.

PV, hope to attach it to a test fish soon.
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Old 03-21-2007, 09:56 AM   #69
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

Chad,

Do you have a pic of the bottom?

Looks nice.
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:35 PM   #70
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

I'm out of town now, but will take a picture this weekend and post it. But to answer how I made the connections:

(1) The hole that the bungie goes through is reinforced at the bottom of the board to prevent the bungie from rubbing against the foam by inserting a 3/4" PVC coupling that is epoxied in place.

(2) The through bolts that hold the cam cleat in place are recessed into the bottom of the board in oversized holes with large fender washers. Actually the connection is made with 2 bolts, a threaded coupling and a lock nut, since apparently 6-1/2" 10-24 bolts don't grow on trees. The first nut is threaded onto one of the bolts, then that bolt is threaded half way into the threaded coupling, then the nut is snugged against the threaded coupling to lock it in place. The recessed bottom holes are drilled to the right depth to allow the 2nd bolt's fender washers to be tight when it bottoms out the threaded coupling against the other bolt. Locktite is also used in that connection.

(3) The starboard is 1/4" thick and recessed into the top of the board. The velcro strap is one piece and required some additional recessing under the starboard to make room for it.

(4) The flag screws into a 3/4" threaded PVC coupling that is epoxied into the top of the board.
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Old 03-21-2007, 03:58 PM   #71
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

how are you tying the bungie...seems to be the weak point in the system to me.
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Old 03-21-2007, 04:20 PM   #72
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

1st I shrink some heat-shrink tubing around it to avoid having the constrictor knots bite in too much. Then I double it over and tie it with double constrictor knots in three locations. Same knot that speargun bands are tied with. If you look at how most bungies are secured they just double a very short section back on itself and put a hog ring or two on it.
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Old 03-21-2007, 04:47 PM   #73
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

does the pressure of the fish put enough strain on the bungie to get it to cut through the bungies? Are you using tuna clips to attach to the spear?
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:50 PM   #74
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

I don't understand "does the pressure of the fish put enough strain on the bungie to get it to cut through the bungies".

I am using a tuna clip on the back end of the bungie. It could be clipped to the gun for a kill shot.

On the front end of the bungie, I use a Diamond High-Catch Escape Proof 500lb swivel. I have used them for years on my riding rigs and find that they are easy to open when necessary, and impossible for fish to open. They are also much smaller than tuna clips, so they're nicer to have next to your gun while tracking fish.
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Old 03-23-2007, 11:08 AM   #75
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Re: Tuna FLoat System

Quote:
Originally Posted by Griswold
1st I shrink some heat-shrink tubing around it to avoid having the constrictor knots bite in too much. Then I double it over and tie it with double constrictor knots in three locations. Same knot that speargun bands are tied with. If you look at how most bungies are secured they just double a very short section back on itself and put a hog ring or two on it.

I think I am visualizing this correctly, but could you please post a pic of this too when you get back in town?

My concern is that if fishing line can cut the bungie when stretched out, why wouldn't the constrictor knot cut through? If you use heat shrink, then it seems as though the strength of the constrictor know would be compromised?

thanks
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