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Old 01-24-2018, 09:42 PM   #1
Orbayburak
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My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

Been wanting to build one for a while and finally had enough time to get to it. Spearboard has helped me a lot and i figured id make a post about my progress here and put some info that the next first time builder can learn from.

If you are a first time builder you have to check this post out there are great information; http://www.spearboard.com/showthread.php?t=104583

As far as the cost (wood, hardware, epoxy, shaft, router bits and more) youre looking at around $350+

Tools i used: 1. Table saw with a jointer jig. The jointer jig is easy to make and it worked great for me. Great way to save money. Here is the video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21u4bou930w
2. Router with a table i built out of furniture wood. I used a palm router but the tip would move slightly every time i raised it which forced me to readjust the fence every time. A solid router would have made everything much easier. Will replace it soon.
3. Drill press from harbor freight, they have 20% off coupon online at all times.
4. Caliper is a must as well as a L square.
6. Chisel set from HF
5. Dremel

Hardware: Teak, neptonics auto-resetting reef mech, neptonics mid handle kit, push rod, line guide, push rod plate and mech jig are all from neptonics as well. West system 105 epoxy and 206 hardener for laminating. Apex surfboard epoxy for coating. There’s no info on spearboard about Apex epoxy but a speargun builder i found online recommended it. It has UV protectors and used by surf board makers so I’ll give that a try.

My first purchase was a teak swing from craiglist which gave me enough wood for 2 guns and more. Pieces were little too thick for lamination so i shaved them down a bit with the table saw. Cleaned the dust and wiped with alcohol to get the oils out. Used generous amount of west system epoxy and laminate 3 pieces together. You want grains going in opposite direction to minimize warping. Used plenty of clamps but dont put a lot of pressure and squeeze the epoxy out. Let it set for enough time. If the lamination is right the wood will break before the epoxy does(at least thats what i heard). The gun i am building is 45'' long, 1.75" wide and 1.5" high. Make sure your laminated blank is bigger than final desired dimensions in case there is warping you can fix.

After lamination cured i made the router jig for the table saw. It worked great and the blank came out super clean. Let it sit indoors for few weeks to get wood acclimated. Fix if there are any warping. Then cut(or plane)the gun into rough final dimensions.

Then i started making the pockets. First i made the track and trigger mech pocket with 1/2" straight router bit. 1/2" bit for track bc i wanted epoxy/graphite/microfiber poured track, then i will router it with 5/16" core box bit for 7mm shaft(3/8" bit for 8mm shaft, i made that mistake). I did 11mm(little less than 1/2”) for the track depth. Do not cut more than 1/8" of depth with the router in one pass. You want at least 1/2" distance between the back of the mech and the butt of the gun. Chisel the round corners for the mech to fit in. Also for open track, you want the trigger mech to be sticking out 1/8" of the top of the gun. If you make it flush then youll have your shaft sitting very deep in the track making it not so open track. For auto resetting mech you will need to carve a small opening for the spring on the bottom.

While router fence is set to center of the gun you should do the handle pocket and push rod pocket. For the handle pocket i used 1/2" straight bit but the handle width is .625" wide so i had to do 2 passes to get the right width then made the ends perfect with the dremel sanding belt(fit perfect). 1/4" for the push rod and pocket for the trigger mech trigger which you will cut the trigger off later.

Use the neptonics mech jig to mark the pin holes for the mech. Blue tape works good to mark the holes for the handle. Cut the holes with drill press. You want these holes straight. Then you can install the handle and the mech and put the push rod in. It will give you an idea of how much to trim the push rod(always cut long bc you can always go back and cut more. If you cut it too short there will be some wobble in the trigger)

For poured track i mixed 8 pumps of epoxy and 8 pumps of hardener. Added 1 tsp of microfibers and 1 tsp of graphite. The rule is to mix epoxy first then add additives. Make sure the gun is level both ways. Prepare the area first and get everything you need ready before mixing. I covered the muzzle area w blue tape and trigger mech area with folded aluminum foil with more aluminum foil support behind it. Mix well. I mixed everything in a plastic disposable cup then transferred it in to ziplock back. Cut one corner and squeeze out into track. Over pour till its convex. Pass torch over quickly to get bubbles out. and again in 10 mins. After its cured you can run in thru table saw and itll leave it super clean.

Then i cut the band slot. Want to use 2X 14mm small ID(inner diameter) bands. Used 1/2" straight router bit and made 2 passes(from both sides) to make the hole slightly bigger than 1/2" and wide enough for 2 bands. Then used small size roundover bit to make the edges smooth to protect bands.

To shape the gun i used 1/2" roundover bit on the butt area and 1/2" cove bit(used fence to control the depth, didn’t go all the way in till the ball bearing) on the rest mainly so the bands can lay parallel to the shaft. Then i dremeled using the sanding belt tool to create band risers and finished it with hand sanding. 80, 120 and 240 grit.

For the line guide and line anchor i used the router table. For the push rod holder i used the drill press with forstner bit on both ends and connected them w chisel, came out great.

I made the mistake of routing the track too low and with 3/8" bit for 7mm shaft. The track was too big/low and the shaft was wobbly in there. I repoured it yesterday and i am waiting for the right bit to be shipped. After that i need to cut the slot for line release and that will be it for shaping and cuts.

I am planning on epoxy coating the gun. Then ballast it with lead. Will keep this thread updated. Here are some pics.

Last edited by Orbayburak; 02-02-2018 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 01-24-2018, 09:48 PM   #2
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

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Old 01-24-2018, 09:54 PM   #3
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

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Old 01-24-2018, 09:55 PM   #4
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

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Old 01-24-2018, 10:17 PM   #5
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

Nice work
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Old 01-26-2018, 03:25 PM   #6
Orbayburak
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

5/16" core box router bit got delivered today, ill be routing the track tomorrow.

Today i sanded the band raisers deeper and made both sides symmetrical as best as i can. Also sanded down all the sharp edges to smooth curves. Then cut the muzzle end to steeper angle. I am happy with the final shape, just need to route the shaft track and cut the line release slot and ill be ready for epoxy coating.
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Old 01-26-2018, 04:22 PM   #7
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

Great looking gun so far. My first gun was a 45" mid-handle too and to this day it's the gun I use most of the time up here on Long Island. With conditions being similar in NJ I'm betting that gun will see lots of action. How will you go about routing the track? If I read right you used the wrong size bit first go? Just wondering if after shaping it's still square enough to keep it square to your router fence.
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Old 01-26-2018, 04:30 PM   #8
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

thank you. i wanted to make a gun that i can use daily for anything from triggers to stripers. I routed the track with 3/8" bit but it ended being too big for 7mm shaft. There is still good amount of square flat surface on the side to route it again.
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Old 01-27-2018, 10:09 PM   #9
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

Quote:
Originally Posted by Orbayburak View Post
thank you. i wanted to make a gun that i can use daily for anything from triggers to stripers. I routed the track with 3/8" bit but it ended being too big for 7mm shaft. There is still good amount of square flat surface on the side to route it again.

No need for routing again. Just take your 7mm shaft and put about 3 or 4 layers of electric tape. Make the tape so that the cut ends face up or towards the shark fins. Each layer of tape will give about .3mm ... you want about .9mm extra. Now lay a bed of epoxy with graphite mixed in (sand the old epoxy for good adhesion first) and lay the shaft over the epoxy. Make sure you have a level meter over your shaft (I use a magnetic level meter) and it is absolutely level. It is also a good opportunity to make your mating of shaft to trigger housing perfect. You want your shaft to just barely clear the trigger housing. This prevents the shaft from jumping down or up into the track ... thus much smoother and more stable shaft flight (more accuracy and more shaft velocity). Once the epoxy has cured you just remove the shaft with tape and sand and clean up the edges and you should have a perfect track.
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:44 PM   #10
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

Track is done. Im glad i redid it because it came out perfect. Shaft sits in it with no wobble. I had to modify the spear so itd fit in mech without increasing the track depth as it is sitting low enough. Waiting for the 1/8" bit to delivered to do the line release slot. Then epoxy and ballasting.
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Old 02-02-2018, 12:52 PM   #11
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

I thought the trigger travel range in the neptonics mid handle kit was too much. When it was fully extended my finger barely had any grip on the trigger. I used the piece i cut from the trigger mech, grinded down to desired thickness and epoxied it to the trigger where it meets the stop pin. End result was much better and works great.
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Old 02-02-2018, 05:50 PM   #12
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

I like what I see.

Don't you think you should machine the blank a little more to the back so the bands sit flush when loaded to the last sharkfin?

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Old 02-02-2018, 07:39 PM   #13
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

its funny you mentioned that bc i was thinkin about that last night.
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Old 08-05-2018, 08:40 PM   #14
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

Finally finished the speargun. Custom 45 teak mid-handle open track with epoxy finish and small ID bands. Came out beautiful. Took me forever bc of work schedule but now its ready to kill some fish.
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Old 08-05-2018, 09:00 PM   #15
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Re: My first speargun built, Teak Midhandle Open Poured Track

It came out really nice! Now we want to see some blood!
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