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Old 08-17-2018, 08:02 PM   #16
Straits
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Thanks Mike. I've ordered a 5/8th straight bit.

Thanks Mikel. This gun will be chest loaded seeing as it's so short, and I've sort of always like loading the Rob Allens without a but like this too. The handle angle sits nicely just below my sternum/upper gut, with the barrel sitting on the bone. If I find this is too uncomfortable I figure I can always add a thick butt pad.

Cheers guys.
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Old 11-04-2018, 06:04 AM   #17
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Update on the build. I'm a first time router user, so watched enough youtube to give me confidence then dived straight in. There is certainly a technique and I made a few rough cuts at first, thankfully on test wood thought. Using a table so it's more forgiving at least.

Use the 5/8inch straight bit for the AR-15 handles - worked great.
Used a 1/2inch straight bit for the Neptonics Reef Mechanisms - again worked great, but obviously needs the corners chiseled out. Any mechs out there that are rounded at the end to avoid this task?
The gun is 40mm wide and 40mm high. I'm lucky it was not smaller as with the mech and the AR-15 handles sunk flush there is very little space between the two. I know I could have protruded the AR-15 handle more, but wanted the trigger guard top to be flush with the gun.
Next I used a round bit for the track, shaving more and more off until the spear just clicks into the mech.

Next step is to drill the holes for the pins for the mech and handle.
Then router a 'cove' groove for the band to lie within.
Then drill the band hole.
Then shape, smooth, oil and shoot.

Only major issue I had was with getting the router centred to the wood.
I am using a table for the router, then bringing the fence to position and measuring from the centre of the bit to the fence. Wood is actually 40.6mm wide, so I used caliper/measurer so the centre of the bit to fence was 20.3mm away. I must have gotten it off by 0.7mm though as the straight router bits don't have a 'centre' so to speak, so I put a drill bit in the collet and tried to measure off that. I cut the handle slot, then turned the wood and cut the mech slot, but didn't use the same side of wood against the fence (if that makes sense). The mech slot was then 1.5mm misaligned with the handle slot. Ruined blank
I learned my lesson and then cut both handle and mech slot and then spear track from the same edge.
It means it is not dead centre, but only 0.7mm off dead centre, and at least handle, mech and track slot all line up.
I've ordered a centering gauge bit so I can get it right in the future.
Any tips for getting it right in the middle?

I'll pop some pics up eventually.
Cheers
Straits
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Old 11-04-2018, 07:50 AM   #18
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Straits Cray Gun Build

If you need for example a track for a 7mm spear use a 4mm routerbit. Make sure you have some test pieces which you dimensioned exactly like the blank during the same production run.

Offset the routerbit by ALMOST the required offset. Cut the track in two passes using either side against the fence. Do this on your test pieces making slight adjustments until you get it perfect. Then cut the blanks, again in two passes using either side.

Center guaranteed.


“I hate storms, but calms undermine my spirits”
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Old 11-04-2018, 11:53 AM   #19
doyenofcastle
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Straits View Post
Update on the build. I'm a first time router user, so watched enough youtube to give me confidence then dived straight in. There is certainly a technique and I made a few rough cuts at first, thankfully on test wood thought. Using a table so it's more forgiving at least.

Use the 5/8inch straight bit for the AR-15 handles - worked great.
Used a 1/2inch straight bit for the Neptonics Reef Mechanisms - again worked great, but obviously needs the corners chiseled out. Any mechs out there that are rounded at the end to avoid this task?
The gun is 40mm wide and 40mm high. I'm lucky it was not smaller as with the mech and the AR-15 handles sunk flush there is very little space between the two. I know I could have protruded the AR-15 handle more, but wanted the trigger guard top to be flush with the gun.
Next I used a round bit for the track, shaving more and more off until the spear just clicks into the mech.

Next step is to drill the holes for the pins for the mech and handle.
Then router a 'cove' groove for the band to lie within ,don't forget the not book ,write down all your experience you gain and mistakes to avoid them in your next project .
Then drill the band hole.
Then shape, smooth, oil and shoot.

Only major issue I had was with getting the router centred to the wood.
I am using a table for the router, then bringing the fence to position and measuring from the centre of the bit to the fence. Wood is actually 40.6mm wide, so I used caliper/measurer so the centre of the bit to fence was 20.3mm away. I must have gotten it off by 0.7mm though as the straight router bits don't have a 'centre' so to speak, so I put a drill bit in the collet and tried to measure off that. I cut the handle slot, then turned the wood and cut the mech slot, but didn't use the same side of wood against the fence (if that makes sense). The mech slot was then 1.5mm misaligned with the handle slot. Ruined blank
I learned my lesson and then cut both handle and mech slot and then spear track from the same edge.
It means it is not dead centre, but only 0.7mm off dead centre, and at least handle, mech and track slot all line up.
I've ordered a centering gauge bit so I can get it right in the future.
Any tips for getting it right in the middle?

I'll pop some pics up eventually.
Cheers
Straits
Any mechs out there that are rounded at the end to avoid this task?tuna neptonic I think ,

used to rout for reef neptonic a little long pocket to avoid that problem and after becoming expert I use small bit to open the trigger pocket (1/4 in) ,make 73 mm long pocket will do the trick ,if you open larger or you have misalignment you still can close it by mixing epoxy with wood floor and some from blank dust , re rout after it get dry ,even this will seal this difficult to paint part ,most important here to keep trigger pocket with spear at same center line ,shaving the side is easy compared to misaligned track with trigger.play with epoxy it can do anything even building up tear out part can be done with mayonnaise epoxy

Last edited by doyenofcastle; 11-04-2018 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:21 AM   #20
Straits
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Thanks for the advice.
I'm almost done. Routing, chiseling, sanding, oiling (pure tung oil).

Realised the band slot groove I routed in didn't force the bands to lay along it. They sort of took their own path. So I flowed with it and chiselled a section in line with this natural lie.

Today I epoxied the pins and metalware in place. I've tied bands and shooting line and now just need time for the epoxy to dry and I can give them a go.

Pics to follow.

Cheers.
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:23 AM   #21
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

A few more...
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:25 AM   #22
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Prior to getting stuck properly into the guns I built this workbench now I've got some tools.
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:26 AM   #23
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Knock down the hard edges. Epoxy does not like to stay attached to outside corners and edges.

MN
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:30 AM   #24
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

How do you mean Mike?
The epoxy is really just applying a 'fix' between pins and wood on the handle and mechanism, and then for the line attachments. Line attachment underneath is screwed in, so epoxy was just an extra bond, and the line pin for shooting line to wrap around really didn't need epoxy as it's very firm into the wood.
Am I missing something?
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:53 AM   #25
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Epoxy coated edges of the spear track tend to wear off as the wishbones rub on then. I have found that if I relieve the hard corners for the entire length of the track, the epoxy coating lasts much longer. This is also applicable to other such corner type edges. On guns I have built and recoated, I see wear on "tight radius" outside edges of the the track, muzzle line groove, push rod groove and band slot. So when I make a new gun or refinish a used gun, I now make sure to relieved those worn edges with scraper, wrasp, file or sand paper so that I get the maximum radius on an edge for the given location.

Clear?

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Old 12-01-2018, 01:05 AM   #26
Straits
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Cheers Mike. Makes sense.

The only sections with epoxy are the internal fixed pins and screws. All the rest of the gun and all exposed wood is just a tung oil finish. Bands have dyneema rather than wish bones, so I am not expecting much wear on the hard edged wood at all. More likely the dyneema will fray over time, but it's an easy re-tie.

Thanks again.

Straits
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Old 12-02-2018, 12:34 AM   #27
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Tested one out. The pin for the shooting line to wrap around was too long and shooting line got caught. A quick grind and file back and shot perfectly.
Picked up 2 crayfish on the test dive.
Pumped these are now going to go into action for summer.
Few glory pics.
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Old 12-02-2018, 12:35 AM   #28
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Re: Straits Cray Gun Build

Thanks to those who helped out on this first build.
I have learned a lot and the next ones will have quite a few changes.
Been great fun so far.
Cheers.
Straits.
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